Clerkenwell is currently the hottest place in London, and is changing so fast that it is hard to keep up. Until recently, it was a neglected and slightly Dickensian area, with funny old watch-makers’ shops, typesetters and publishers. Now, most of the watch-makers’ shops have been replaced by up-market cafes and bars, and few of the artists and designers who helped make Clerkenwell fashionable can afford to stay. Nevertheless, the area has not lost all of its character. Many of the Italian families who moved there in the 1950s remain, and in the summer give the annual Clerkenwell Festival a distinctly mediterranean flavour – it’s no wonder that Clerkenwell used to be known as ‘Little Italy’. Both Clerkenwell Green and Exmouth Market are full of cafes, bars and small quirky shops, so despite the rapid changes to the area, it is still a fascinating place to visit.